Thank you so much!

I hadn’t really considered how much of the knowledge is local. That makes sense though, in a duh why didn’t I already think of that kind of way.

I’m not ready to get started yet but I like reading about potential future hobbies or things I just find generally interesting, such as bee keeping, so the general knowledge will be fine for now.

Hello! I have considered getting into bee keeping as a retirement thing but I don’t know a good resource to start learning.

Are there any good online communities you can recommend, forums, etc?

This is probably the best explanation I’ve seen so far and really helped me actually understand what it means when we talk about “weights” for LLMs.

There are no sources for that because it’s so wrong and dumb I don’t think you can even find one that would claim it.

-tons of natural resources (oil, precious metals, fisheries, timber)

-tons of undeveloped land

-unique landscapes for USA

-crazy strategic value to geography (Aleutian chain, proximity to VERY quickly melting arctic ice passages to other parts of the world that have historically been nigh impassable)

-it reliably votes red every general election, and most Alaska senators and house reps are Republican (even if they are more often the odd-votes)

The list goes on. The comment you’re replying to is one of the dumbest trump speculations I’ve ever seen. Trump has enough we can speculate on, we don’t need to make up nonsense.

I still listen to this at least weekly, the album is in my regular gym rotation because

A) it’s hard for me to listen to lyric heavy music and count reps correctly (brain no work good during ugga dugga) and

B) It’s amazing.

You need zero poker experience to play it. It’s not a poker game at all, just uses poker hands for scoring, and if you don’t know them they’re all displayed if you hit esc.

It wasn’t for me either at first but I gave it another shot and it got its hook into me.

What helped me was looking up a scoring/basic strategy guide that helped me figure out what super rookie mistakes I was making - this gave me a better eye for strategy when I was playing, which in turn translated to me enjoying the deck building aspect (which is a mechanic I know I enjoy).

The game is good, and really great to pick up and put down in busts if you don’t have a lot of time.

Hope you end up liking it eventually! I LOVE poker of all types, rogue likes, and deck builders so I thought this was a smash hit when I heard about it, but yeah, took a while to love it.

Look man I sort of get what you’re saying but I was an electrician for a decade and I’m telling you nobody would consider a gaming computer a continuous load, like ever. UNLESS it was a business that sold time on a gaming computer, as I originally stated.

If a homeowner hired me and for some reason was adamant that I apply the 80% rule to a convenience circuit I’d probably walk away from the job because that customer is likely to be more trouble than they’re worth because they think they understand the (extremely complicated and nuanced) code that I work with on a daily basis. It’s not a threat to my license to do this install at all, just my sanity to deal with engineers that think they know better than tradesmen.

If I did take the job it would be unnecessarily expensive in terms of materials.

A normal 20A breaker will trip if you’re overloading it - that can be either instantaneous current draw (say 23 or 24A at one time) or it can be because you’re at 18A for a couple hours straight. That’s how they’re designed (does depend on the breaker but what I’m talking about is fairly standard). So there’s literally no reason to do what you’re suggesting. A properly installed, inspected, code compliant 15 or 20A circuit is plenty for current gaming computers. IF you start to go overboard pop and you unplug some other stuff and carry on, because that’s how the system is designed.

I do not recommend homeowners do circuit upgrades themselves, because you can’t just throw a higher amperage breaker on a circuit and call it a day, that’s how you get fires. I agree that people in old homes, or even newer homes that they buy, should have a licensed electrician inspect their homes. A lot of what I’ve been saying about the reliability and capacity of circuits doesn’t stand when you get back past the early 90s. NEC is updated every three years and the code is written in ashes and blood.

But if your house was built correctly after I’d say 1990 or 95 in the USA, everything I’m saying applies. It can apply for older homes also, but yeah, get an inspection done.

Maybe, but those questions are part of the normal daily zeitgeist. Everyone is exposed to those concepts and services through natural osmosis, but when I wanted to join Lemmy I got an app and I didn’t realize until I started trying to use it that it was a distributed system. Then I’m like, wait what? And I had to go read some stuff about it. Wasn’t anything too crazy but I was confused at first.

I wouldn’t recommend keeping credit card limits low to only mitigate fraud risk - credit card companies generally will take the hit for unauthorized use, aka stolen information, and send you a new card. So keeping the limit low in an effort to make sure that if your info is stolen they’ll only be able to steal $1000 or $2000 isn’t really necessary, and only affects your ability to use credit and have a better credit score (because your % of utilization of your overall credit limit goes into your FICO).

Instead, review your purchases monthly and inform the card company of charges you didn’t make as soon as you see them.

DEBIT cards are a different story. They’re a direct link to your bank account funds and there’s no intermediary that is willing to take a hit, it’s your bank vs you, so if your debit card info (and pin) are exposed you’re much more vulnerable. So I wouldn’t recommend EVER using debit these days, there’s zero reason to, but if you have to then your advice in your OP is more appropriate.

I can’t speak for others, but when I joined I was definitely confused by instances, federated internet, moderation variances, and how to operate the various ~ 4 beta apps I downloaded at the same time.

I’m definitely not a tech normie, but it was still unfamiliar and I would never have migrated if I hadn’t been fed up with Reddit.

Most people don’t want to have to look up guides to figure out how a system works, they just want to download an app that their friends all use and move on with their day. Blocking instances you don’t like? Doing research to find a “home” instance? Ain’t nobody got time for that.

I raise the BS flag. A chef is responsible for creating and planning the restaurant menu, which means they have to create dishes that fit the restaurant niche and local customer base’s interest, while also fitting the recipes into the workflow of the kitchen setup, ingredient availability from suppliers, etc. They have to worry about prep capacity, yield percentages vs cost of the menu items, etc.

I studied culinary arts and worked in the restaurant industry for eight years before I got out. There is a difference between a chef and a cook and a kitchen manager. Were you a line lead, or kitchen manager? I might buy that.

The chef is not just someone who wants to break their back until they make it up the hierarchy, they’re usually the one who is passionate enough that AFTER breaking their back all day they go home and STILL COOK. I went home after 14 hour days and made cereal or whatever because I was sick of cooking.

Never once have I ever heard an actual chef call themselves a “professional chef.” Most actual chefs I’ve met are snobbishly anti-nonstick as well, but that’s not necessarily a rule. ALL of them could make a Teflon pan last more than a year or two.

Your comments stink, I don’t buy it, unless you were a glorified kitchen manager that the restaurant called a “chef” but you had no real job in making the menu or new recipes.

I have been a pro chef as well.

Doubt

I mean, if you could use the GPU exhaust as your dryer heating element that would be dope

Interesting. That’s stupid high, all the more reason to stick with ryzen for the time being.

You could make the argument that people with 5090s do run their PCs longer than 3 hours since those folk are more prone to longer bouts of gaming

I think this is what I said also, yes

Doesn’t hurt to plan for the future regarding building wiring, since most tech folk do so regarding their PC builds.

I completely agree. IMO 15A convenience circuits (normal wall circuits in residential homes) are out of date and shouldn’t be used any longer. 20A should be the minimum, but that extra copper is expensive, so it’s a balance that has to be weighed at construction.

seems that homeowners are given a special class of immunity when it comes to manifesting hazards associated with their use of electricity

No, I don’t think that’s what this is. The fact is that the NEC is for building design, not for building use. The whole reason that there’s a breaker installed that has to be matched to the correct gauge wires and the correct outlets, or whatever, is so that when the occupant does something dumb it trips long before you get enough heat to start a fire.

The NEC is not for the occupant, it’s for the architects, general contractors, and electricians. Unless you’re doing construction in your house you don’t need to worry about it at all.

Use your breakers to their capacity, but understand that the closer you get to their rating the more likely you’ll pop a breaker, or worst case start a fire if your stuff wasn’t installed well.

But you don’t have to derate your own stuff per NEC requirements, that’s not how it works.

350W CPU?? Even a 14900k is only 250W, most are 120-180.

75W of fans???

I’m sure you could find parts with that much draw, but that is not normal.

The NEC limits CONTINUOUS loads to 80%, not intermittent loads. Continuous loads are things like heaters, AC units, etc. Things plugged into the wall are generally not considered continuous loads, so your breakers in a residential home are usually not derated, and receptacles never are from what I’ve seen. (Although it could be argued that a gaming computer would be a continuous load, as it runs 3+ hours for many people, but there’s still no electrician that would treat it that way, probably ever, unless it was some kind of commercial space that rented gaming seats or something. Either way it would be planned in advance)

The rule that you’re describing is for the initial planning of the circuit. It’s for the rating of your wires and overcurrent protections, which is done at the time of installation, based on the expected continuous and intermittent loads. For residential planning nobody treats a standard branch circuit for wall receptacles as somewhere you’d derate, so your 15A circuit is a 15A circuit, you don’t need to do any more math on it and derate it further.

1000W PSU pulls max 8.3A on a 120v circuit.

Residential circuits in USA are 15-20A, very rarely are they 10 but I’ve seen some super old ones or split 20A breakers in the wild.

A single duplex outlet must be rated to the same amperage as the breaker in order to be code, so with a 5090 PC you’re around half capacity of what you’d normally find, worst case. Nice big monitors take about an amp each, and other peripherals are negligible.

You could easily pop a breaker if you’ve got a bunch of other stuff on the same circuit, but that’s true for anything.

I think the power draw on a 5090 is crazy, crazy high don’t get me wrong, but let’s be reasonable here - electricity costs yes, but we’re not getting close to the limits of a circuit/receptacle (yet).

Wow. Did you pull that from your dealership employee talking points guidebook?

Why is it that every other industry is able to handle recall corrections without a dealership model?