As the sheer quantity of clothing available to the average American has grown over the past few decades, everything feels at least a little bit flimsier than it used to.
The most obvious indication of these changes is printed on a garment’s fiber-content tag. Knits used to be made entirely from natural fibers. These fibers usually came from shearing sheep, goats, alpacas, and other animals. Sometimes, plant-derived fibers such as cotton or linen were blended in. Now, according to Imran Islam, a textile-science professor and knit expert at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, the overwhelming majority of yarn used in mass-market knitwear is blended with some type of plastic.
Knits made with synthetic fiber are cheaper to produce. They can be spun up in astronomical quantities to meet the sudden whims of clothing manufacturers—there’s no waiting for whole flocks of sheep to get fluffy enough to hand shear. They also usually can be tossed in your washing machine with everything else. But by virtually every measure, synthetic fabrics are far inferior. They pill quickly, sometimes look fake, shed microplastics, and don’t perform as well as wool when worn. Sweaters are functional garments, not just fashionable ones. Wool keeps its wearer warm without steaming them like a baked potato wrapped in foil. Its fibers are hygroscopic and hydrophobic, which means they draw moisture to their center and leave the surface dry. A wool sweater can absorb a lot of water from the air around it before it feels wet or cold to the touch
A significant amount of polyamide or acrylic is now common in sweaters with four-digit price tags. A $3,200 Gucci “wool cardigan,” for example, is actually half polyamide when you read the fine print. Cheaper materials have crept into the fashion industry’s output gradually, as more and more customers have become inured to them. In the beginning, these changes were motivated primarily by the price pressures of fast fashion, Islam said: As low-end brands have created global networks that pump out extremely cheap, disposable clothing, more premium brands have attempted to keep up with the frenetic pace while still maximizing profits, which means cutting costs and cutting corners. Islam estimates that a pound of sheep’s wool as a raw material might cost from $1.50 to $2. A pound of cashmere might cost anywhere from $10 to $15. A pound of acrylic, meanwhile, can be had for less than $1.
This race to the bottom had been going on for years, but it accelerated considerably in 2005, Sofi Thanhauser, the author of Worn: A People’s History of Clothing, told me. That year was the end of the Multifiber Arrangement, a trade agreement that had for three decades capped imports of textile products and yarn into the United States, Canada, and the European Union from developing countries. Once Western retailers no longer had meaningful restrictions on where they could source their garments from, many of them went shopping for the cheapest inventory possible.
Textile processing has always extracted a terrible price from the environment. The difference today is that there are orders of magnitude more humans, owning orders of magnitudes more pieces of clothing. When your wardrobe consisted of 8 pieces of clothing and you shared an entire continent with millions or tens of millions of people, production was pretty labor and material intensive but you had the whole earth to dilute it.
I’m currently (For a couple years now) on a merino wool kick. Is the farming of merino sheep, the transport to (mostly Vietnam), washing, combining, dying, fabrication, and then shipping half way around the world resource intensive? I’m sure it is. But I’m tired of throwing things away all the time, and the wool is comfortable and (so far) durable. It’s also pretty expensive, but I’m hoping that the durability and resulting low(er) impact is a net gain.
Yes, definitely. It’s not only more people, but marketing tactics have grown terrifyingly fast and vicious. It’s hard to fight when you know there are tons of people who are getting paid for thinking the entire day of how to boost sales.
Last week i heard someone tell me that they made 25% profit, but the CEO started firing people because they had aimed for some ridiculous number; 75% or so.
I’ve recently become aware of mulesing, an appalling practice used on Merino sheep in Australia and NZ due to a specific fly problem. The problem is that most merino wool is from those countries.
Also, most fabric generically labeled ‘wool’ is mostly merino from mulesinged sheep.
Ethics conscious knitters, crocheters and weavers are aware, and merino yarns certified as mulesing-free are on the market now.
Knowing country of origin and wool type is another reliable way to avoid endorsing this practice, but again most manufactured clothing or even fabrics will not give the necessary information.